Jonny Johansson‘s latest for Acne is the fruit of a recent inspiration-seeking vacation in Marrakech. Not wanting to go too easily with the grain, he worked against the trite interpretations spawned from such a place, not just with mania, but something more akin to verve. That’s something that anyone designing for the cool street-style set needs to employ often. Still, no one was quite prepared for what Johansson came up with this season. His is a talent that can extract water from the desert. How he got there is a mystery, but his conclusions are wondrous. Your typical Marrakech parade, it was not.
The generosity of the fabrics, particularly in the caftans, culottes and gaucho pants were the main signals of his travels to the ‘Ocher city’, not withstanding the the ochre garments, obviously. It was a veritable options fest. Black, white, powder blue, bubblegum pink, cobalt, vibrant orange and ochre made up most of the gorgeous palette, all made especially beautiful by exceptional pieces – scratch that – whole looks that shouldn’t work by any reasonable logic, like a deep pink caftan over an expertly tailored pair of leather pants inset with racing stripes, star cutouts and panels of sparkly plastic. The star cutouts were one of the major recurring leitmotifs and pretty much everything stamped with them – from the cropped tops, to the A-line skirts, to the dresses, had a must-have-now appeal.
Truth is, the entire show had that same effect. It’s hard to pinpoint just which items are going to sell out faster come this Spring. Perhaps the terrific baseball caps, those meticulously constructed motorcycle jackets that are just as stunningly ornamented as those leather, ankle-length pants. Many will buy both the caftan and the pants just to pull that look off in real life. But to do that, they would have to throw down some dough for those tasseled loafers (make it the cobalt blue ones!), which is something the cool kids will be more than happy to do the second they’re given the chance.