Sportswear is already proving to be a predominant trend in New York this season, so should it be any wonder that it be Alexander Wang to shell out the definitive collection in the matter? This season, he took athleticism and took it from an abstraction and created a clear vision. BMX bikers and race-car drivers – it was the perfect set up for a look and feel that touched upon, or embraced the 80s, 90s and today.
There was absolutely nothing red carpet about his line up. That’s not to say there weren’t traces of elegance – those bright polo shirts under laser mesh bomber jackets are a good example, doubling the peplums as pockets on zip-front floral dresses in another. His second set of floral clad biker chicks was an especially cool group, for those leather waisted pants that could serve as one half of a body suit, to the meshed jackets with the leather tailored to look or perhaps serve, as protective gear, but definitely with those matching bike helmets. Louis Vuitton produced something similar for resort season, but that didn’t make nearly as much sense as it did here. With those serated edge old-school strappy mules, that bad ass post-fight wet hair look and the Queen B leather bandanas, Alex Wang’s girl was a bonafide bitch on heels.
Fresh off a win at the CFDA Awards this past June, when he took home Accessories Designer of the Year, here he released another cavalcade of items that the New York downtown cool girls will be clamoring over each other for. Those mule heels and the bandanas, surely, but mainly those gorgeous backpacks in deep midnight blue and dark burgundy. This felt so completely different from his fall 2011 show, and it wasn’t just the obvious autumn/spring contrast. The fact is that the one constant with Wang is that he keeps grasping for the new idea. When criticized for the predominant darkness of his clothes, he answered with an almost all-white and metallic pastels collection. He responded to that with last season’s Wang-does-Telluride performance. Perhaps the way he keeps his fans on their toes is the best thing about him and his zeitgeisty brand.