This latest from Calvin Klein Collection saw Francisco Costa at his most paired down. While many designers felt around minimalism for Fall 2011, opting for saturated brights and piñatas of prints for spring and summer, Costa took nudes, metallics and black and made dresses, skirts, coats with a supremely subtle hand, constructing pieces that were far from being as simple and stripped down as they might first appear.
Costa played with house heritage too. The nude slip-dresses were cut so acutely on top that bras were perfectly seen underneath,working for both lingerie and ready-to-wear. The jackets came with shawl collars and helped cover up even more provocative sheer black tops.
Despite all the tonal neutrality of the collection, these pieces came with plenty of light, but essential touches that helped to keep it all in balance. To counter the narrowness of the dresses, Costa cut his silk shorts with such flow and volume that they moved like billowing skirts. The slips came gathered in the back by dozens of intricate pleats and what looked like rows of seams on a column dress were actually crystals. In a collection so thoroughly cohesive and seeming in restraint, Costa utilized a pantheon of materials – tulle, silk charmeuse, viscose, mohair, double-faced creme, embroidery. You’d have to get close enough to touch to truly appreciate how considered they were.
This may have been his greatest case for an all-opportunity closet that never forsakes elegance for sexuality, and vice versa.