Trussardi Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear Collection
With Trussardi celebrating its centennial this year, it was time to reevaluate things. The brand, whose bread and butter is its luxury leather goods, joined the game of creative director musical chairs that never seemed to end this year and ditched Milan Vukmirovic who had been at the helm since 2008. It was a supposedly friendly parting of ways. Vukmirovic, a creative powerhouse in his own right, is known in the fashion set for dipping his finger in more projects than he can handle. With that, Trussardi snagged up-and-coming 30 year old Umit Benan, whose stylish take on classic menswear sat the whole industry to attention. It was an essential coup for Trussardi. They got menswear’s new ‘it’ guy on their side in no time.
Benan was keen enough to stay close to his menswear roots for his first womenswear outing. Held at Milan’s grand Castello Sforzesco, Benan sent almost all of his models out on the runway carrying more than one piece of luggage. Luckily, they kept their equilibrium in the expansive and uncalled for runway. Travel was the central motif, if one couldn’t tell from the head-scratchy airplane seats at the end of the runway and the array of nappa leather backpacks and weekenders.
The proportions played a wonderful middle ground between a man and a woman’s closet. Loose fit pants and jackets, the hem on the high-rise trousers hitting the ankle directly, the slightly boxy blazers tying in the necessary feminine touch with ultra-thin belts helping to cinch them at the waist. There were also a good number of jumpsuits, the tanned safari looking number at the opening of the set and the pajama-striped piece both real winners here.
But which of all these highly accessible, positively covetous looks was the very best? The exceptional layering at work here made it difficult to choose. A tight and short navy skirt under a long gray dress shirt with side pockets extending under a royal blue crewneck sweater definitely comes to mind. Perhaps the light gray trench with crocodile detailing on the collar? Fabulous, yes, but not as insanely chic as that all-black look under a deep blue le smoking. Actually, it was neither of those. Take one of his royal blue trousers, add an almost light-denim tinted dress shirt with a loose, open collar, throw on a dark slate black two-button blazer, roll up the sleeves and you’ll have one of those sensible, easy-dressing ensembles that fashion week-going women have been looking for all season long.