After a dark and tight lineup for fall, Marc Jacobs and his Louis Vuitton team did a huge about-face with a sugary and light collection for spring. Jacobs, a big fan of the fashion show-in-the round model, set up an enormous carousel in the Louvre’s Cour Carree, his delicate and very lady-like models sitting side-saddle, some of them looking like picture-perfect Monet subjects with their parasols in hand.
The same laser-cut flowers that decorated a good number of his eponymous label’s last resort collection were the central leitmotif here, which came in all sorts of arrangements, from nappa corolla skirts to crocodile mat leather jackets, even A-line dust coats. The fetishistic, dominatrix-laden colors of last season were traded up for fresh pastels – the kind you’d find in a delectable assortment of French macaroons. The French saturation of this collection makes one wonder if Jacobs dove into spring with the head job at Christian Dior in mind. The cornerstone of the whole LVMH conglomerate is luxury, and judging just from this latest follow through, he has the job. But Jacobs is not a certified couturier. Word has it that should he switch houses, Jacobs intends to bring his Louis Vuitton team along with him. The prospect of Celine’s Phoebe Philo taking the reins is an exciting idea, but no Jacobs? This collection makes you miss him already.
The show was a triumph of focused vision. The myriad interpretations of the laser-cut flowers, which came at times sequined in diamonds, arranged with ombre feathers, in degrades of spearmint to pink to baby blue, laced into sweaters – creating a new haute vision of your everyday staple argyle on men’s sweaters – the surfeit of explorations left the mind reeling. The accessories, which are always a feast for the eyes at any Louis Vuitton show, included a few of the house’s staples – like the Monogram, the Lockit and the Speedy, made their turns around the room in their respective delicate materials. The most auspicious of all those being the “Coquille de O-euf”, made from 12,500 eggshell fragments, arranged to make a hard-to-beat rendering of the iconic Louis Vuitton pattern. And as for those high-heel metal pointed mules – expect those to be bonafide front-row fodder at next February’s show, when the madhouse fashion musical chairs game of the past two seasons, will have finally come to its overdue conclusion.