Zac Posen has returned to New York with his ears attuned to the needs of his client base. Posen gets a lot of love from ladies who lunch in the East, so for pre-fall he bedecked his impressively vast lineup (aligned back to back, the 33 look collection took up almost the entire width of one side of the large showroom space) in oriental touches through brocades, a mountain of hand-embroidered appliques and even in silhouette, with a few European couture cuts to the ostentatious kimonos.
Not for any lack of variety with the display of daywear and evening-wear, there were tons of silhouettes to choose from here as well. There were mermaid dresses and skirts for the office that gave that tailored flare at the edges, feeling slightly akin to Tom Ford’s latest for spring and hourglass sheath with rays of seams that they called the ‘shattered glass’ technique, helping to nip and tuck the waist accordingly. Round couture shapes and bell sleeves on haute suiting and long dreamy dresses were Posen’s answer to the calls of his clients in the Middle East that are in the market for his gossamer-laden gowns (That last merlot number from his Resort collection a popular one amongst that client base reportedly).
For all that workmanship and bombast, it was actually his more approachable, but still forward-thinking daywear pieces that were the best offerings here. A certain white top with boxy shoulders that extended upwards with a gray wool corolla skirt spoke to his younger clientele, who, when looking at all the pieces from afar, were greatly disregarded here. A solid outing indeed, but perhaps a refocus is in order.