For Pre-Fall, Alexander Wang went for something a bit less gimmick-laden than his Spring BMX biker outing with a line-up locked in what can be termed a ‘Dark Primness’. The ‘dark’ part is quite obvious, the ‘primness’ – that comes in the tailoring of the dazzling array of formal jackets offered here, and more subtly still with the footwear, those Victorian kitten heels and shin-length sheer kitten boots. There was certainly something palpably grand guignol about this outing, like the closet of a modern day vampire sans any of the legendary caricature.
Proportion was another visible follow-through, just as much as the heavy double-breasting of almost everything and the use of pleating (Not the kind of romantic ice cream parlor pleats offered by Miuccia Prada for this upcoming Spring, but more akin to those street ready, ass-kicking carwash minis from Balenciaga’s Spring 2010 collection).
It wasn’t all pure formality though. Wang couldn’t possibly deliver a collection without a few of his key outerwear pieces. He has yet to lose his penchant for that light nylon windbreaker material repurposed for sturdier wares here, that come sleeveless and end in a bisection of wool flannel, the slate gray piece adorned with a cowl, another Wang motif cementing itself as a house signature from collection to collection.
There were a couple of touches here and there that were reminiscent of the work of his heavy-hitting contemporaries, like the patchworked wool pieces that rang of Philo’s Japanese denim blocked looks for Celine, or the aforementioned carwash skirts ala Balenciaga, but most striking was that sarong skirt, gorgeously imbued in a golden brown, paired with a metallic bronzed top – it screamed of Proenza Schouler’s silhouette from their expedition into Googie architecture last season, and lastly, those buckled harnesses on a very chic trench, which immediately recalled last Fall’s McQueen.
People look to Wang to set the trends, and although this may have been his most referential outing to date, there’s no denying that he has a way of putting his own stamp on things. Besides, designers play off each other’s ideas all the time, and you can’t fault Wang for being as much a fan of his contemporaries as the rest of us.