Corrective Concealer Demystified

Concealer

Blending

When choosing concealer take into account how much make up you generally wear.. If you are going to only apply concealer and a lightweight powder then the texture of a thick concealer is going to really stand out in contrast to your skin. Often applying something that ‘clashes’ texture-wise with your skin can draw attention to the area more then if you’d applied nothing. Choose the most light-weight option for your type of blemish. I love using a small buffing eye brush to apply concealers in general. If a very precise application is required then a small firm brush will do the job.

Color Correcting

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Color wheel

When applying concealer the object is to hide imperfections with the most minimal amount of product and blend into the surrounding skin. The art of color correcting and theory is both interesting to know and amazingly helpful in all aspects of make-up color choice and application.

To effectively hide blemishes that are a different color to your skin use complimentary colors (those opposite the color of the blemish on the color wheel). Once you understand this then look at the colors of the areas you want to conceal. Is it a dark area under your eye? These colors tend to be blue/green so what will neutralist this? You got it .. products containing red/orange pigments! Having said this if the problem is mild – then a pink or ‘warm toned’ concealer might do the job, for heavy jobs like tattoos then pure color might need to be applied precisely and a skin-colored concealer applied on top. As always when it comes to concealer – less is more!

Cream Concealer

Often the heaviest type of concealer – it should be applied sparingly and precisely while blending to match the texture of your skin and make-up.

Liquid Concealer

Liquid concealers come in many types of consistency. From oil-free products that dry to a matte finish to moisturising ‘fresh’ looking concealers. Decide what’s going to work best for you with your choices of foundation and your type of skin.

Light Reflectors/Illuinating Concealers

There is quite a big difference between a)straight light reflectors/illuminators and b)concealers that include these as well as coverage to conceal. Some are fantastic for adding brightness to an area but can leave you looking like you’re trapped in headlights – a big pale ring around your eyes if not blended or layered with pigmented cosmetics. For ease of use I love using a light reflecting concealer for a light fresh look under eyes or darker patches.

Powder Concealer

I am yet to find a good powder concealer that works. Blemishes or dark under eye areas are often textured and adding powder can emphasise this even further. I am going to road test some of these properly in the future and keep you posted.