Salvatore Ferragamo Pre-Fall 2012

In an effort to revive the iconic style of Italy’s haute bourgeoisie Massimiliano Giornetti, creative director at Salvatore Ferragamo, elevated classic 60s silhouettes with rough touches of exotic skins and intriguing appliqués. There were some outstanding geometric prints to choose from, but the true triumph of this collection was Giornetti’s new use of exotic skins. Brushed pony-skin capes; ostrich trenchcoats, pencil skirts, and luggage-like bags all spoke to the house’s mastery of ultra-luxe leathers of all sorts.

The skirts were truly remarkable. Pleated panels of deep mahogany python worked almost like prisms both catching and deflecting light, subtly referencing the unmistakable allure of Italy’s very own strand of sexiness. Like any luxury house in today’s market, accessories are crucial to staying afloat. Gionetti was smart to invest most of his design energy here. In a less-is-more fashion this collection honed in on the Kitten Heel trend, a shape that has had some difficulty in a retail setting. Though we usually like more daring shoes, these were modest while maintaining a hint of mystery. “I liked the idea that they are arriving from a journey, or waiting for one,”  Gionetti added as a closing note. “I don’t believe in uniforms. What you see here are mostly daywear separates. I think the joy of dressing is that every day you’re getting up and reinventing yourself.”