Jason Wu waits for Fall to translate his almost fairy tale-like wonderment with the opulence of foreign lands. Last Fall he exorcised Robert Polidori’s ‘Parcours Museologique Revisite’ – a three volume set on the 25 year restoration of Versailles – into an utterly successful collection that cemented Wu’s place as a stalwart in the New York fashion mainstream (If his Obama associations hadn’t done so already).
For Fall 2012 he looked to China. A recent trip to his homeland of Taiwan with his father signaled Wu’s curiosity on China. The strict militant rigidity came through in the color palette – the dark camo green, that rising sun red; gold embellishments and embroideries a wink at the country’s ostentatious dynastic heritage. Wu took his plays on lace from last year, like how they came as trim on the sleeves on rich gray sweaters, and injected it onto the outerwear, as seen of a quilted cargo puffer. Alexander Wang touched upon this last Fall too, as did Proenza Schouler for Pre-Fall. It’s a trend that’s here to stay and it gave the pieces here a terrific balance of opulence and strength.
The best of the entire line-up came early on: A fur collared green trench dress hugged by an embellished cummerbund (The same gold rivets came embellished on the open-toed footwear below). A red sheath dress with black accent outline that highlighted the natural curves on the bodice was a bit too literal, while that white fur sleeved double-breasted cropped jacket on Aymeline Valade was literally just amazing.