The conquering theme was power in both the men and women’s collection this season, translating in the sharpness of the clothes, hair, and makeup. Prada creates an army of “virtual princesses” stalking down the runway, in flashes of black, purple, white and orange. The makeup was also virtual, almost unreal, as if each girl were a replica from an otherworldly place. The ABC’s of the designer are always structure, ornament, and print, but where before they were spelled, this time they were loud and clear. Decoration was all about the waist upward, a play on both the masculine and feminine.
There was a very strong eye; Pat McGrath created something “very manga” layering an orange greasepaint over blocked-out arches and sweeping a black greasepaint through the crease and up toward the brow bone. Upper and lower lash lines were then rimmed with alternating strokes of black and purple pencil. Hairstylist Guido Palau envisioned hair with extreme simpleness, followed by a flash of color as if someone had drawn hair onto a computer. This was about actualizing a woman who is powerful, but who hasn’t entirely given up her soul to power, still caring about adornment and beauty.