Every fall, the Rag & Bone MO is patchwork layering. This latest from David Neville and Marcus Wainwright is no different on that stance, but the zeal and kinetic energy of their clothes appeared somewhat stifled by a drab color scheme. The color wheel alone was enough to make their Spring show one of the major standouts in a lackluster New York season. Good fro them that their talents for layering and adroit skills with dizzy geometry haven’t gone by the wayside. Good for us too.
The one highlight with color worth bringing up is how the duo injected a metallic glow to neutrals and earthy tones. The opening look, a bronzed jacket and matching riding pant, with its body hugging lines and contrasts of color hearkened back to the best looks in Proenza Schouler’s groundbreaking F/W 09 collection. The gorgeous brown leather coat that fell over that get-up came with gradating stripes of black, gray and tan – much like those stripes explored by Richard Chai one day before. One more of those this week and it will be a trend again, as they were a little more than a year ago.
The implicit reason (and joy) for Neville and Wainwright’s tempest-tossed styling fall after fall is that it allows their work to be picked apart and reassembled in innumerable combos. That makes them popular with editors and their savvy clientele-base. Their mix-media/patchwork pieces were real standouts here, like a skirt with pleated silk on the sides, met at the center by a geometric herringbone cut out. Another clever touch includes the thick wraps with leather trim that were styled and belted around the body to serve as makeshift ponchos. Thanks for the tip boys.
At first, I was convinced I knew which was my favorite look – a black dress shirt, as seen on Daga Ziober, belted under two jackets – the first: brown cropped leather – the second: a red tailored sporty suit jacket above a matching wool skirt with black leather detailing. A strong look for sure, as well as one of the least busy ensembles in the line-up. But it came down to an even more spartan Rag & Bone appeal this time. With leather and metallic patches on the collar and bust, it was the quiet drama of the second look out that I keep thinking back on.