Backstage at Lanvin Fall 2012
In hi-tech felt and sculptural rubber, the Lanvin woman for Fall 2012 rises like a living sketch, armed with the power of desire. She seeks to live the life of an urban amazon, entirely free.
Armour, sport, couture: the inspirations meld in this celebration of fusion, which transforms a bronze lame parka into a vision, a brocade bolero into a tale of lightness and dark. A story of lines, volume and fabrics, given added density by the shapes of undulating brocade, pleated metal polyester, leather backed with intarsia knit. It is also a game of contrasts between the raw edge of a laser cut and the presence of baroque medallions, stretch belts with panther clasps whose eyes shine. Everything moves yet everything has structure. Faille falls against light. Pleated ruffles give zig-zag waves to a black dress. Lace gives the effect of a torn stained glass window. Raw edges, shaved ruby beaver fur, matte organza, bound velvet. Color appears projected as vibrant planes. The gift of a unique hand knows how to work the fabric to create new volumes both in collars and in skirts.
There is a tension between the exacerbated femininity of a cocktail dress in painted silk and the oversized effect of a man’s coat with a white trim, between the almost religious rigour of a black dress or a wool felt jacket with a high collar, and the frenzy of an evening dress embroidered with crystals.
There exists an energy that nothing can counter, the absolute essence of a line that wraps itself into spirals – a basque or the outsized neckline of an acid yellow sheath – and a regal allure that is omnipresent.
As if come from a future beyond our knowledge, shaken by shockwaves, dreams and living enigmas.