Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have had lots on their collective plate as of late (namely, the opening of their New York City flagship store uptown with another downtown location following suit right after), and yet, a heavy workload has never been known to stifle the creative juices that flow from the powerful Proenza Schouler duo – that is, until this latest resort collection. One can’t help but feel that the two have back-pedaled somehow on the ‘big ideas’ front for this intermediary season. The fact that the clothes were more wearable than ever was the collection’s most necessary ballast to the unexpected stasis.
The first look prompted a double-take. The green tweed jacket and skirt blatantly recalled pre-fall’s silhouette and last February’s geometric paneling on coats and jackets. This was followed immediately by a black and white tweed A-line dress that was more prim and proper than the expected ‘cool and crafty’ PS fare.
Leather was a big part of the Proenza Schouler story this season. The most interesting part about the use of leather was how it came in pieces that looked intended for denim. Case in point: a black relaxed collarless shirt over a royal blue double-pleated skirt. That black top felt almost cowboy-ish and once again harkened back to their own repertoire – specifically to their Spring ’10 ready-to-wear, when McCollough and Hernandez looked to their cool street-style ready girlfriends for inspiration.
They lassoed in their essential cool factor with the introduction of denim. The denim made for looks of chic simplicity. There was something about a white tee paired with light washed out jeans worn under a tweed coat, (the coat came off as a morphed, evolved version of their iconic Baja sweater) that felt like the chemically-stripped base of the Proenza Schouler modes of dressing. Easy breezy is what it conjures up, but not too much. Flip flops would not do this look justice. In order to carry the message, you’d need to include those elegant black stilettos to the mix.