The most prescient, lingering sentiment after Alexander Wang’s Spring ’13 show was ‘focus’. It was fiercely edited, and that’s not a fashionista layman’s “fierce” term we’re talking about here. This is a serious business-minded, stringent acumen that was at play, and Wang has only gotten better every season at wrangling a cohesive, singular stance out of his team.
His leitmotif du jour was a continuous play on trompe l’oeil horizontal strips that seemed to hang freely on everything from roomy leather shorts, overlay tops, croc-stamped deep-plunge sheaths, skirts – the works. He sliced and diced his way through his fabrics, which are only getting more luxurious with each season, and he kept it all in a severely strict palette of black, white, tan and spangling silver. Perhaps, a bit repetitive, and not altogether a reinvention of the fashion wheel per se – Pedro Lourenco and Ralph Rucci both beat him to that punch. Though, those two barely have their fingertips on the pulse of the New York fashion gestalt quite like Wang.
The opening look, a black jacket with leather pocket detail and a key-ring zip, only hinted at the lazer-like splicing that would follow (look closely at that leather shirt collar), though chances are most eyes went straight for the footwear – a kitten-heel boot held by thin strands attached to five stacked patches of leather. Those are going to be photographed like crazy (Might as well throw in those huge billed caps in there while we’re at it). There was an interesting interplay between the slices on tops and skirts and an underlaying zebra print that graced a leather leopard spotted top. As the show progressed, those once clean cuts became more jagged, as if they were shredded with a large serrated knife.
Wang hasn’t given up on his tribal fever either, which is not a totally bad thing. Tribal-motif perforations on the backs of shirts and jackets looked like vertebrae. It’ll be difficult to guess if those nifty details or the pomp of the closing white set’s glow in the dark theatrics, will be the most memorable gifts this brilliant outing had to give.