1940s glamor reigned at the Burberry Prorsum catwalk today. Christopher Bailey looked to capes and corsets to tap into that zenith of Brit elegance and he did so by turning out pieces you wouldn’t necessarily envision belonging to the Burberry house upon first glance. Consider the burgundy opera coat, cut in a generous proportion, with overscaled side pockets or the pink ombre coat that fell away from the body.
It is Burberry after all, so the iconic trench was still front and center throughout, spun from ruched satin with corset molding, which gave a special highlight to the bust especially. That same ruching appeared from beginning to end – on poolside wares, on entire trenches and on the ever-so-polished daytime cocktail dresses. Another sweet proposition were the severely cropped bombers with billowy flanges on the sleeves. The one worn by Fei Fei Sun in metallic green color blocking was particularly vibrant and cool. It was nice to see all the elegance ballasted by the eye-popping metallic lame’ on tailored short-sleeve button ups, matched at times by a sleek and ghostly carpet print.
There was a moment, when a trench in a gilded lace appeared, that you were sure you spotted Bailey’s pièce de résistance, but alas – an evanescent thought. Because in an emerald moss green lace, the house trench, despite the hundreds of different iterations it has seen under Bailey’s hand, has never looked more rich, sumptuous, beautiful, and whatever the price may be, worth it.