Giles Deacon shows us a tougher side of spring with his new black and white collection this season. Leather laser cut dresses and silk photo prints were playful, but still sexy revealing bare skin underneath graphic cut outs. The perversity of his Jane Mansfield inspiration ranged from punk to pop in a full fantasy from ethereal, flowy ball gowns to retro and flared trouser suits. “Initially I had been thinking about Jayne Mansfield and the place she occupies in pop culture,” explained Deacon. “She is such a graphic figure, comic and tragic. And is defined by that car crash.” This was translated in the shattered glass patterns that were both a surprise and exaltation of ingenuity that manifested throughout the show.
Hair stylist John Hanlon channeled “an eighties-nineties grungy girl who has stepped from one decade to the next,” as if Mansfield herself could have been the very being floating through time. Toni & Guy Label M Matte Paste was finger combed through a low side part for a rough-dried effect then mixed with Blow Out Spray with a bit of Sea Salt Spray for increased texture. Hanlon coined this signature style as “skinny hair” which was both tousled and loose. “This is a girl who will wear a beautiful ball gown but then totally forget to do her hair, so it looks cool.” Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni kept things equally effortless, pointing out that her matte fuchsia mouths and radiant skin were meant to simulate “makeup you can do at home.” Highlights were added along cheekbones and eyelids with MAC Cream Colour Base in Luna and Hush, so areas reflected appeared “like lightning bolts.” MAC Lipstick in Embrace Me was layered over foundation and powdered to give it the ultimate matte finish. Nails were painted to match, and brows brushed or bleached according to hair color. This paired with with the extravagant hats from Stephen Jones produced a image of an icon withstanding the tests of time.