A “modern medieval” princess stalked the runway this season at Rodarte, adventurously taking inspiration from the fantasies of role playing games to create an image of the ultimate warrior. This inventive collection was unique with its armor-like pieces, red leather flames, and chain belts straight out of the imagination of Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy. James Kaliardos for Nars originally imagined his “dungeons and dragons” muse to have a smoky eye, but when that didn’t work, he created more of neutral look with a bit of blush for something more contemporary.
Kaliardos created luminous faces by prepping skin with Nars toner and moisturizer adding NarsSkin Optimal Brightening Concentrate for a healthy glow. A thin layer of Triple X Lip Gloss smoothed on both eyes and lips completed the incandescent effect. A light application of Nars Himalayas to the inner corner of eyes and the cupid bow highlighted with a pale eye shadow that has a pinky shimmer. “The hair is a hard swoosh, we really wanted something simple and modern and beautiful [on the face], but that had some sort of catch to the eye. And I really love a gloss on the eye. I mean Jean Harlow did it, it’s not like it’s a brand new thing. It’s really sexy.” The result was “Very reflective and minimal.” Keratase lead stylist Odile Gilbert created a style that was more severe than the ethereal makeup.Kerstase Fibre Architect was worked through for “Very graphic, very modern, very straight hair,” and finished with Elixir Ultime The Imperial “almost glued to the head, like if they were shaved.” The nails were by far the most impressive, High Shine Pearl, Desert Suede, and Chocolate Milk colored wax strips woven together on wax paper and fixed to artificial nails taking over 200 hours to create. The devil was in the details, an inventive twist on neutral beauty that went beyond the basics.