Not to insinuate that Massimiliano Giornetti has struggled to find his footing at Salvatore Ferragamo, but his Spring collection was so overwhelmingly pleasing, so supremely luxurious and so accessible, that it may just be the apotheosis of everything that Salvatore Ferragamo stands for historically in palpable actuality today.
It may also be the most outerwear-heavy collection to grace the catwalks thus far this season. First look out: Karmen Pedaru in a black suede trench with some seriously killer black croc boots. Every garment in this look will go through a process, a change throughout the show – that same trench will come in traditional khaki, and in a soft green suede. The sleekness of the black boot will take you aback, as will the must-have-now matte croc version, but for our money – the stark white pair are the ultimate winners among winners here. There was crocodile, suede and leather galore – a real luxe romp (and Salvatore Ferragamo knows all about a luxe romp – the guest list to their FNO party in New York City was comprised mostly modern Russian aristocracy, not to mention the champagne, obscure but delicious vodka and hors d’ouevres topped with caviar passed around the flagship).
But the greatest thing Giornetti did here was blow the dust off of luxury, which this season, comes in the form of a miniskirt. When it wasn’t slightly mullet-cut, covered all over by gold or gunmetal discs, it was sliced asymmetrically, stamped in ecru croc with a built in metal grommet belt. Hats off to the styling department too. The tied belts motif worked with every proportion, the asymmetric closures that gave way to peekaboo sheer tops underneath trenches (was it just sheer or the same ghostly Lurex used for crewnecks in the Spring menswear collection?) So many of the grand details required a closer look. Honestly, has there been a hotter pair of pants all season than the white cigarette pants with a zip at the heel, covered in a barely there William Morris – type brocade? Sensational. All in all this felt like a much-appreciated lifeline to the Salvatore Ferragamo of tomorrow.