It was a benchmark year for J.W. Anderson. Accolades here, collaborations there. Last June saw what was surely his personal best menswear collection to date, and after this last intrinsically polarizing show, it remains so.
Anderson’s shows have guts. This Fall outing is bound to unease a good portion of the masses. Really, subtly is not Anderson’s strongest suit, though that would’ve barely been the point of his opening ruched collar tops, frilly neoprene shorts and ruffled riding boot ensembles. It’s downright saucy of Anderson to juxtapose those blatantly extreme shorts with such an insidiously transgressive top. Consider the gatherings below the collar. Menswear is hardly ever afforded such a touch. Set that piece against a set of trousers and you’ve got tomorrow’s answer to the crewneck sweater, or even the turtleneck.
Attempting to parse the concept of a bodycon gray wool sheath dress or a strapless top with pockets on the solar plexus will prove difficult, lest you’re of the expertly brave London street-style crowd, but the freshness and universality of a no frills-no fuss cerulean coat and those “this ain’t Beaver Cleaver” white picket fence and landscaping shear intarsia knits can’t be denied.You can almost count on that skin tight color-blocked maroon mini to pop up in many a girls closet come Fall too, which may be part of Anderson’s point all along. Behind that white picket fence, brothers and sisters are free to raid each other’s closets.