In typical Moschino style, a juxtaposing collection went down the runway and worked beautifully. This year’s contrasting theme melded opulence with the everyday. Somehow managing to create tuxedo silhouettes that could be worn to more than black tie affairs.
The 1970s rocker accents helped create this wearable vibe, but the tailoring and details are what really made the collection click. Normally a tartan suit would have us cringing, but somehow with the parka and fur additions it has us turning our head in a good way. White dinner jackets seem better fit for cotillion events than for grown men, but yet again, Moschino works it. Brocade prints should be more Louis XIV than 2013, but not with Rossella Jardini at the helm.
A certain attitude is needed for many of the pieces—not everyone can pull off a tuxedo with the skyline of Tokyo printed on it. Bright cobalt blues, tartans and elegant fabrics are toned down through ascots, shoes and cummerbunds. Playing with textures, shapes and colors also helped pare down the exuberance of the designs—tuxedo pants paired with grey knit sweaters, velvets paired with wool, and color blocks of grey transform the classic look of men’s evening wear into modernity.