Joseph Abboud’s Creative Director, Bernardo Rojo, had American heroes on the brain. He seems to do that often. Though, his male muses for fall are more of the sprint-into-action mein than last season’s hero of American celluloid, James Dean. His emblem this time was the man on the moon – the literal one. The 60s spacesuits of the Apollo missions and the streamlined white curvature of the TWA Flight Center proved to be fruitful sparks for the designer, now on his fourth season with the brand. The kinetics of that inspiration meant one thing – the signature suiting was left on the back-burner.
Innovation has become a big part of the Joseph Abboud message and here Rojo employed his savviness with tech fabrics and futurist tailoring to a lineup that amounted to a heap of outerwear. The most translatable, from message to garment, was a white double-layer parka with a faux-fur trim hood. It captured that futuristic Telluride feel, but it also stated that the Abboud gentleman has advanced, not just temporally, but in character. He has street smarts now. The monochromatic white ensemble it completed looked like what the male models are wearing when they’re off the runway.
There was plenty of leather here as well, as seen on sharp chest panels on a black duffel coat, and more bombastically still, on a pair of cobalt trousers. The pants were another interesting part of Rojo’s story. Consider the fabrication on what appeared to be a perfectly normal pair of navy trousers with a lighter blue panel running down the side of the leg, only to see it end in a ribbed hem. ‘Sartorial-athleticism’ – the new watchword?
The one piece that had the room abuzz was one emerald green moto made of shorn ponyhair. And there was no skimping to speak of. The jacket came completely lined in ponyhair too. Though, there was a white ribbed knit sweater paired with a thick asphalt gray neoprene scarf that gave even that luxury item a run for its money for best in show. Someone in the crowd even compared it to a classic Calvin Klein emsemble. Not shabby company.
It was a welcome departure for a line that’s just catching its footing with the contemporary crowd. So much so, that the label is already expanding with the Joseph Abboud Red Label, which is graced with higher quality fabrics and finishes. Expect the first shipment at London’s Harrod’s flagship this spring.