Superstorm Nemo didn’t foil everyone’s plans this New York Fashion Week. Unfortunately, not the case for Marc Jacobs. His ‘Marc Jacobs’ show had to be pushed up until Thursday, leaving his ‘Marc for Marc Jacobs’ show to fill the big sis’ usual time slot on Monday. Some editors are set to be well on their way to London on Thursday. You can bet some assistants are busy rebooking flights for the remainder of the week.
In the end, the Marc show popped up at the tents, and it turned out to be a show that spoke zilch about the fraught mood that permeated the air in light of such cumbersome weather conditions. There are only so many decades, and Jacobs, in his 15+ years in the business, has drawn from pretty much all of them; here he tapped into the 70s, which is always a treat coming from Marc. As always, it was a fully-realized wardrobe, replete with separates. There were many prints – on shifts, skirts, trapeze shirt-dresses and best of all, on silky pajama suits. Window-pane check, popular on the runways in New York and in Milan and Paris at the men’s shows a month ago, popped up here as well, put to particular good use in both men’s and women’s coats. But where he did steer from the rest of his compatriots was in mood. This had an obvious pep, a lightheartedness that worked like a balm.
The collection felt like a freight train of color and print, but it was not without its share of quiet, but smart looks. A button-up railroad stripe shirt looked mature, but chic with a high-waisted print skirt. Replace the skirt with a short black tunic dress and you’ve got a bigger winner still. Knowing the Marc for Marc girl needs at least one statement piece in the closet, he threw in a stunning brown fur coat. No bells and whistles. Just classic.