It was a veritable layers-fest. No dress came down without a pair of tailored black flares with encrusted hems underneath.
The house of Gucci is one of those rare high-end luxe brands whose menswear far, far outdoes its womenswear season in, season out – at least that has been the case under the direction of Frida Giannini.
Christopher Bailey’s “The Gentlemen”, his Fall 2012 menswear collection, gives way to his feminine exploration of the ultimate English sartorial crossroads – the haute interminglings at the corner of “Town and Field”.
Fashion and celluloid make for the perfect marriage. The two have gone hand in hand since time immemorial it seems. But every season, there’s that one seemingly random film that serves as the source material and inspiration behind a collection.
Fall 2012 found the inexhaustible Betsey Johnson in solid form.
The gold cinched waist was the trend of the night at the 54th Grammy Awards, and the next morning Carlos Miele sent out a collection that in its own way, acknowledged the zeitgeist-celebritae with similar touches.
Making vintage-boheme a thing of luxury has been Gregory Parkinson’s calling card for years.
Nothing was what it seemed at Alexander Wang’s Fall 2012 show. The materials he used were the most customized and luxe he has ever employed.
Max and Lubov Azria certainly bring sexy back this season; with signature skin-tight bandage dresses. Every look accessorized with buckled leather harnesses, adding an element of toughness to the clothes.
Charlotte Ronson steered clear of grunge this season and showed a more ladylike, refined collection.
Duckie Brown designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver sent the story of their lives down the runway.
Max Mara Atelier is a special project focusing on the coat. This Fall/Winter 2012 collection marks a further step in the celebration of style and luxury with these must-have items from the great Italian group.
The first look out at Proenza Schouler couldn’t have been more different from anything Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandezpresented last season.
In many ways it was a classic Marc Jacobs kind of evening. He served a collection with a big point of view, a bombastic production, a little show tunes sensibility sprinkling, maniacal styling and a hodgepodge of themes and ideas that never get so tangled up that you can’t discern one element from the other.
Exactly one year ago Kate and Laura Mulleavy sent out their first ready-to-wear collection that had no ties to their home state of California. Up until their “Days of Heaven”/American Great Plains-inspired round-up last fall, one of the diehard Rodarte tenets had always been California or bust.
This time around Karan tapped into old Hollywood’s androgynous icon, Marlene Dietrich. Designers walk tight ropes when choosing iconic figures as inspiration for their collections.
The show opened in a palette of solid black, which made each piece in the first section of the show about texture, fabric choice, and silhouette.
Chadwick Bell calls his Fall 2012 woman his Midnight Rose.
There is a caveat. The similarities between this Fall/Winter 2012 lineup and Balenciaga’s own celebrated F/W 07 outing are rather severe. Altuzarra’s dip into LBD territory also recalls Nicolas Ghesquiere’s little black dress opening numbers for F/W 08.
Joseph Altuzarra is just hot off his CFDA/VFF Award win a couple of months ago and just in case there was a soul out there that doubted the young French designer’s cred, this latest collection should be proof enough that it certainly was no fluke.
Every fall, the Rag & Bone MO is patchwork layering. This latest from David Neville and Marcus Wainwright is no different on that stance, but the zeal and kinetic energy of their clothes appeared somewhat stifled by a drab color scheme.
Jason Wu waits for Fall to translate his almost fairy tale-like wonderment with the opulence of foreign lands. Last Fall he exorcised Robert Polidori’s ‘Parcours Museologique Revisite’ – a three volume set on the 25 year restoration of Versailles – into an utterly successful collection that cemented Wu’s place as a stalwart in the New York fashion mainstream (If his Obama associations hadn’t done so already).
When you hear Roberto Cavalli’s name, the first thing that comes to mind isn’t always “masterful tailoring” or “innovative construction.”
The attempt here seems to be no-fuss Parisienne elegance, but injected with a touch of modernity that Galliano couldn’t seem to wrangle for himself.