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For Pre-Fall, Philo hasn’t completely abandoned the rounded cuts, nor the baggy fits, and as evidenced by a tapered color-blocked trouser, champagne in the front, matte white on the back, she obviously isn’t ready to forsake what’s been making her loyal following covetous and hungry for the hot-again brand since taking over the helm in 2010.

With Tisci’s help, Couture has its bite back, and pre-fall–usually a collection of basics used by retailers to freshen up the floor–is now a veritable space for new, interesting and bold design.

For Pre-Fall, Alexander Wang went for something a bit less gimmick-laden than his Spring BMX biker outing with a line-up deeply locked in what can be termed a ‘Dark Primness’.

For McQ’s Pre-fall 2012, Burton used the 1967 film ‘Far from the Madding Crowd’ as a reference, the collection served serious English gentry and Victorian vibes with sharp suits and separates, elaborate ruffled blouses, and exaggerated turn-of-the-century collars on knits and shirt dresses.

Whether it was an intentional kind of inspiration or not, ‘Manhattan’ proved to be the perfect vehicle for the cinephile designer to tackle a pre-fall vibe.

Don’t be fooled by the nods to Noir comic book action bubbles, Phillip Lim designed some serious clothes for pre-fall.

Those amazing blazers, parkas, and leather jackets in grey putty, olives, and ink-blacks were at once effortless and captivating to the eye.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are hot off back-to-back triumphs on the runway for Proenza Schouler and they’re proving, season to season, to be masters of the fashion about-face.

How does that fashion maxim go again? Three is a trend? In that case let’s just go and induct houndstooth as the earlyl front-runner for hot trend of the pre-fall season.

Zac Posen has returned to New York with his ears attuned to the needs of his client base.

Never known to shy away from prints or color, Thakoon Panichgul added a third element to his repertoire for pre-fall. Texture.

Where Pre-fall for DKNY seemed a bit static, maybe even uncomfortably commercial, Donna Karan Collection reaffirmed Karan’s place among America’s most forward-thinking designers.