The return of Jil Sander to her eponymous line after an eight year high-fashion hiatus is one of the industry’s most noted, talked about stories.
What has happened to Dolce & Gabbana? They’re officially gridlocked in a campy nostalgia, in a kitschy bucolic loop that looks to be inescapable. A year ago they hit upon something big, a special way of doing things. You can pick out the same notes in last Spring’s show, to last Fall’s foray to this latest collection for Spring ’13.
There was definitely a younger, more carefree side of the Versace woman this season, a generous step away from the dark deviant we saw last season. This was the type of bohemian girl that parties at Coachella and takes movie worthy, cross-country road trips with her girlfriends, evanescent and free.
Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni decided that this was the season to turn that cushiony notion right on its head. Marni is a label brimming with supposed givens. Marni means color, print, fabulous jewelry – it means leather and fur. Turns out, not so much. Well, at least not this season, anyway.
After the explosive success of Versace for H&M and the welcome return to couture form with Atelier Versace, it appears Donatella’s newfound creative impetus has staked fertile ground in the ready-to-wear line, making for a fresh and spirited Versace girl, but one whose inherent carnality is always close at hand.
Tomas Maier’s collections at Bottega Veneta get better and better with every passing season. What he delivered for Spring must be his most considered, worked-over, strategically conceived and luxurious clothes to date.
Pat McGrath created an image of “a passionate woman [this season] and you can’t get more passionate than red.” Skin was immaculate and lightly highlighted through the center of the face, while eyes were simple using a neutral brown to contour and a white frosty shadow to line the lids.
That strange sensation in the pit of your stomach before a Prada show is very natural. It’s called anticipation. Every spring and fall, for at least 8 minutes, the fashion world comes to a halt and pays attention to what Prada and crew have to deliver for the season.
Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picciol took a surprising step away from the usual esthetic and a more mature, sensual and severe Valentino woman introduced a more arcane prestige to the dreamlike elegance of a classic beauty.
Jil Sander has explained her time away from the label has helped her to find a new perspective.
The iconic Gucci bit loafer is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year and it was beautifully honored in each look of Frida Giannini’s latest menswear collection.
The Italian designers will be showing off a high-fashion offering in Sicily on July 9. Although they are famed for attracting an A-list front row at their presentations, this time around things are going to be different. They will have no press at their first ever couture show.
It was the strongest season in recent memory. Even those brands who faired well in the summer collections uped their game for fall, making for one nonstop month of grade-A capital-F Fashion.
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana turned down the kitsch factor ten-fold with this collection, and set out to design a functional and fabulous wardrobe for the “renaissance” woman. Literally.
Angela Missoni knows texture. She’s sustained a house on that foundation. For fall 2012 she brought things back to nature, but with an expressionist twist.
If a fashion stint is to be measured by Shakespearean terms, an exit after his much lauded spring collection, with the envisioning of the Jil Sander bride, would’ve qualified as a departure steeped in the Logos – departing with order intact.
The Versace for H&M runway soundtrack featured a repeating track of Donatella Versace’s new-found house maxim: “My house, my rules, my pleasure.”
There was a very strong eye; Pat McGrath created something “very manga” layering an orange greasepaint over blocked-out arches and sweeping a black greasepaint through the crease and up toward the brow bone. Upper and lower lash lines were then rimmed with alternating strokes of black and purple pencil.
Pat McGrath creates a really beautiful dark lip paired with perfected skin and bleached brows, mimicking textures in the deep velvets of the clothing. “It’s a little Rossetti,” McGrath continued, referring to the elegantly stained lips of his portraits.
It was a veritable layers-fest. No dress came down without a pair of tailored black flares with encrusted hems underneath.
The house of Gucci is one of those rare high-end luxe brands whose menswear far, far outdoes its womenswear season in, season out – at least that has been the case under the direction of Frida Giannini.
When you hear Roberto Cavalli’s name, the first thing that comes to mind isn’t always “masterful tailoring” or “innovative construction.”
In an effort to revive the iconic style of Italy’s haute bourgeoisie Massimiliano Giornetti, creative director at Salvatore Ferragamo, elevated classic 60s silhouettes with rough touches of exotic skins and intriguing appliqués.
Miuccia Prada held court and staged a coup in Milan with her latest for menswear.