After an impressive 13-piece menswear collection for spring 2012, London-based color master Jonathan Saunders is making the move to Milan.
There’s many a watchword in the world of Missoni, ‘knits’ being the prime. ‘Patterns’ is another, but so is ‘saturation’. Angela Missoni’s real wizardry lies in how she pulls varying textures, prints and techniques to create looks that are always stringently representative of the Maison.
The great thing about Marni is that its one of the few great houses that refuses to rest on its laurels. Each season Consuelo Castiglioni takes a dramatic chance and comes up the winner every time. Marni is consistently good.
The big chunky earrings that fit the food theme appropriately helped carry that old school Mambo Italiano vibe (As well as the song itself). There was also no way to look at the burgeoning prints and the inviting, bright colors and not see a heavy take over of optimism in these clothes.
For spring Dundas hit the books, the Pucci archives to be specific, and felt himself particularly drawn to the Brigitte Bardot/boheme fevered era of the early 1970s and splattered his gypsy skirts and peasant cropped tops in an archival print, even hand embroidering it on a house signature white maxi dress and a hand crocheted caftan with fringed ends.
Lisa Butler, artist for this show explains, “It’s all about the eye, but we don’t want it to be too neat or too smoky. It’s very loose, very relaxed, and quite wild.”
While other designers look outward for inspiration, finding creative ammunition in Jazz Age flappers, Hawaiian floral and tribal prints, Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier looks inward, finding that the most consistent and surefire location to hunt down inspiration is in works of art themselves.
With Trussardi celebrating its centennial this year, it was time to reevaluate things. The brand, whose bread and butter is its luxury leather goods, joined the game of creative director musical chairs that never seemed to end this year and ditched Milan Vukmirovic who had been at the helm since 2008.
Miuccia Prada has been stricken with a discernable strain of sweetness this season. Her latest outing for Prada was laden in 1950s nostalgia and tongue-in-cheek housewifeyness, but not without its equal plays with the subversive.
Something is happening at Gucci these days. For the past few seasons, it ‘s felt like no matter what the theme, Frida Giannini has to bash you over the head with it.
Internationally acclaimed makeup artist, Pat McGrath, creates a “tougher, stronger look” for Frida Giannini’s 1920’s influenced presentation featuring striking blacked out eyes and a flawless face.
Stars, glitter, a little androgyny. Dolce & Gabbana always make a big fashion soiree out of their Milan Fashion Week collections and this one was no different.
Last season it was a severely chic version of Olive Oil. This time – sirens, Mondrian art, Dian Fossey, Amelia Earhart, anthropomorphic serpents – that’s only but a handful of the different facets at play or interpreted from Miuccia Prada’s latest masterpiece collection.