Hervé Léger by Max Azria Fall 2012 Look 1

Max and Lubov Azria certainly bring sexy back this season; with signature skin-tight bandage dresses. Every look accessorized with buckled leather harnesses, adding an element of toughness to the clothes.

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Max Mara Atelier is a special project focusing on the coat. This Fall/Winter 2012 collection marks a further step in the celebration of style and luxury with these must-have items from the great Italian group.

Marc Jacobs Fall 2012 RTW 1

In many ways it was a classic Marc Jacobs kind of evening. He served a collection with a big point of view, a bombastic production, a little show tunes sensibility sprinkling, maniacal styling and a hodgepodge of themes and ideas that never get so tangled up that you can’t discern one element from the other.

Rodarte RTW Fall 2012 RTW 1

Exactly one year ago Kate and Laura Mulleavy sent out their first ready-to-wear collection that had no ties to their home state of California. Up until their “Days of Heaven”/American Great Plains-inspired round-up last fall, one of the diehard Rodarte tenets had always been California or bust.

Donna Karan Fall 2012 Look 20

This time around Karan tapped into old Hollywood’s androgynous icon, Marlene Dietrich. Designers walk tight ropes when choosing iconic figures as inspiration for their collections.

Altuzarra Fall Winter 2012 13

There is a caveat. The similarities between this Fall/Winter 2012 lineup and Balenciaga’s own celebrated F/W 07 outing are rather severe. Altuzarra’s dip into LBD territory also recalls Nicolas Ghesquiere’s little black dress opening numbers for F/W 08.

Altuzarra Fall 2012 RTW 1

Joseph Altuzarra is just hot off his CFDA/VFF Award win a couple of months ago and just in case there was a soul out there that doubted the young French designer’s cred, this latest collection should be proof enough that it certainly was no fluke.

Rag & Bone Fall 2012 RTW 1

Every fall, the Rag & Bone MO is patchwork layering. This latest from David Neville and Marcus Wainwright is no different on that stance, but the zeal and kinetic energy of their clothes appeared somewhat stifled by a drab color scheme.

Jason Wu Fall 2012 RTW 1

Jason Wu waits for Fall to translate his almost fairy tale-like wonderment with the opulence of foreign lands. Last Fall he exorcised Robert Polidori’s ‘Parcours Museologique Revisite’ – a three volume set on the 25 year restoration of Versailles – into an utterly successful collection that cemented Wu’s place as a stalwart in the New York fashion mainstream (If his Obama associations hadn’t done so already).

Alexander Wang Pre Fall 2012 Collection 28

For Pre-Fall, Alexander Wang went for something a bit less gimmick-laden than his Spring BMX biker outing with a line-up deeply locked in what can be termed a ‘Dark Primness’.

Helmut Lang Pre Fall 2012 Look 14

Those amazing blazers, parkas, and leather jackets in grey putty, olives, and ink-blacks were at once effortless and captivating to the eye.

Proenza Schouler Pre Fall 2012 Look 1

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are hot off back-to-back triumphs on the runway for Proenza Schouler and they’re proving, season to season, to be masters of the fashion about-face.

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How does that fashion maxim go again? Three is a trend? In that case let’s just go and induct houndstooth as the earlyl front-runner for hot trend of the pre-fall season.

Thakoon Pre fall 2012

Never known to shy away from prints or color, Thakoon Panichgul added a third element to his repertoire for pre-fall. Texture.