When you hear Roberto Cavalli’s name, the first thing that comes to mind isn’t always “masterful tailoring” or “innovative construction.”
The attempt here seems to be no-fuss Parisienne elegance, but injected with a touch of modernity that Galliano couldn’t seem to wrangle for himself.
In an effort to revive the iconic style of Italy’s haute bourgeoisie Massimiliano Giornetti, creative director at Salvatore Ferragamo, elevated classic 60s silhouettes with rough touches of exotic skins and intriguing appliqués.
Expect the unexpected is the constant protocol du jour on show or press day at Balenciaga. The guessing game is only a halfway fruitless endeavor with a Nicolas Ghesquiere collection.
For Pre-Fall, Philo hasn’t completely abandoned the rounded cuts, nor the baggy fits, and as evidenced by a tapered color-blocked trouser, champagne in the front, matte white on the back, she obviously isn’t ready to forsake what’s been making her loyal following covetous and hungry for the hot-again brand since taking over the helm in 2010.
With Tisci’s help, Couture has its bite back, and pre-fall–usually a collection of basics used by retailers to freshen up the floor–is now a veritable space for new, interesting and bold design.
What you have to love most about Alber Elbaz’s time at Lanvin, is its evident selflessness. The design is always about improving “the house” and hardly ever about personal branding or celebrity. It’s refreshing to say the least.
For Pre-Fall, Alexander Wang went for something a bit less gimmick-laden than his Spring BMX biker outing with a line-up deeply locked in what can be termed a ‘Dark Primness’.
For McQ’s Pre-fall 2012, Burton used the 1967 film ‘Far from the Madding Crowd’ as a reference, the collection served serious English gentry and Victorian vibes with sharp suits and separates, elaborate ruffled blouses, and exaggerated turn-of-the-century collars on knits and shirt dresses.
Whether it was an intentional kind of inspiration or not, ‘Manhattan’ proved to be the perfect vehicle for the cinephile designer to tackle a pre-fall vibe.
Don’t be fooled by the nods to Noir comic book action bubbles, Phillip Lim designed some serious clothes for pre-fall.
Those amazing blazers, parkas, and leather jackets in grey putty, olives, and ink-blacks were at once effortless and captivating to the eye.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are hot off back-to-back triumphs on the runway for Proenza Schouler and they’re proving, season to season, to be masters of the fashion about-face.
How does that fashion maxim go again? Three is a trend? In that case let’s just go and induct houndstooth as the earlyl front-runner for hot trend of the pre-fall season.
Zac Posen has returned to New York with his ears attuned to the needs of his client base.
Never known to shy away from prints or color, Thakoon Panichgul added a third element to his repertoire for pre-fall. Texture.
Where Pre-fall for DKNY seemed a bit static, maybe even uncomfortably commercial, Donna Karan Collection reaffirmed Karan’s place among America’s most forward-thinking designers.
Few designers have mastered the art of understated elegance. For Carolina Herrera it’s become a lifestyle. Carolina made it clear that pre-fall was a continuation of spring, which was jam packed with prints, color, and embellishment.
Overall this was a collection about trends and vast selection, which is probably just what retailers have prescribed.
Fendi girl is all grown up, apparently. There were no wild colors, radical silhouettes, no frills -well, save for the use of folded organza as an appliqué for some pencil skirts and a few of the evening looks.
Pre-fall 2012 for Burberry Prorsum was almost too cute for words, but Bailey kept things interesting, creating a nice juxtaposition between the cutesy Tootsie pop owl-screened pullovers and the course militaristic tailoring that’s become the house’s trademark.
How to begin to discuss one of Karl Lagerfeld‘s collections for Chanel? With almost 80 looks that walked down the runway in Paris’ Grand Palais space for Chanel‘s pre-fall foray, Uncle Karl doesn’t make it easy.
After a romping spring 2012 collection replete with bustling couture skirts and grungy lace t-shirts and crop tops, Oscar de la Renta took it back to basics reminding us all that he’s the American master of both high-drama and understated elegance.
Pre-fall for Michael Kors channeled all the characteristic sexiness found in an American Western saloon.
“India for me is an idea, I know nothing of reality,” Karl Lagerfeld says of his Chanel Pre Fall collection.