Elie Saab Fall 2011: Visuals & Press Release
by Daniel HaimLike a modern-day Belle de Jour fresh from the set of a Luis Buñuel film, the Elie Saab woman dons a tall, slim silhouette, the epitome of Parisian chic.
Perched on Mary Jane-inspired strappy heels, her waist cinched in with a slim belt, she conjures up the elegance of the Sixties in short, sharp daywear silhouettes.
Sheathed in a tapered suit-dress in virgin wool crêpe in cherry red, sand or prune, she is a vision of femininity in raglan sleeves and godet skirts.
Slightly flared silhouettes are structured with aplomb, recalling the perfectly matte black of the Sixties, while scuba-inspired sheath dresses in crêpe dialogue with the perfect fit of looks in fresh stretch wool. Box pleats and formfitting, wraparound draping provide a counterpoint to the wool crepe jackets subtly crafted with lace and chiffon openwork, which bring a couture spirit to the collection.
In contrast, long chiffon dresses printed with neo-floral drawings and breezy strokes of charcoal float with newfound lightness.
Easy daywear looks are prominent: taupe leather t-shirts, twin sets with lace inlays, and black knit dresses with “strata” pleats are accessorized with an onyx black fox fur throw. Elegance emerges in flat bows that embrace the silhouette, while elsewhere peplums enlace the waist. Graphic and precise ‘twisted’ inserts appear like smocked bands to underscore the waist, bust or shoulder.
For evening, pleated, ribbed looks in aubergine, ecru or pale gray. The last passages twinkle like constellations in silver-white, dark purple and black. Chic returns with welcome simplicity.