Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear Collection
by Alexander Patino
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana praised their motherland with their Dolce & Gabbana sensation at the deepest, truest level with a sartorial traipse through an Italian farmer’s market. They went the novelty prints route with frocks, bustier/bra tops, hot pants and bikinis covered in eggplants, hot peppers and zucchinis. Sophia Loren and bulbous heads of onion. You could just imagine the mood board.
The big chunky earrings that fit the food theme appropriately helped carry that old school Mambo Italiano vibe (As well as the song itself). There was also no way to look at the burgeoning prints and the inviting, bright colors and not see a heavy take over of optimism in these clothes. From the cropped midriff top and matching skirt in a red chili print, which on Kinga Rajzak looked caliente indeed, to the eggplant printed silk sheer dress with a visible bustier below, these pieces made you feel the Tuscan sun, you could imagine the sensuous beads of sweat on the beautiful woman donning that on an Italian summer day. Dolce and Gabbana’s grasp and control felt so familiar and even slightly cinematic. A mid-century Fellini heat wave. Surely, Fellini’s ladies made it onto that same mood board as well.
The fun and exciting carnal tones of the opening pieces gave way to the duo’s ‘smart’ dressing garments, namely those stunning lace skirt suits and shift dresses with matching flower appliques. Those even worked beautifully with some of the vegetable printed garments, like a beige top in lace worn with a knee-length skirt printed in daisies and red onions. The most dazzling of these was Constance Jablonski’s shift dress that starts with blue lace on top that merges into a midsection of printed tangerine fabric and ending with the selfsame marzipan icing-looking lace at the bottom.
There was a strange section towards the end of orange plastic suits with heavy black detailing on the borders that skewed more Basque than Turin. The gemmed and crystal embellished numbers at the end were the real shop-stoppers, and that’s not talking about Dolce and Gabbana’s signature corsets that came out for the final walk, but those sparkling garments, or baubles, that came with crystal arrangements in curlicue patterns over shifts and minis, the best with fringed and encrusted tassels. Seems that after last season’s star spangled endeavor, Dolce and Gabbana can’t seem to shake themselves of a little happy-go-lucky shine.