Missoni Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
by Keesean Moore
Angela Missoni knows texture. She’s sustained a house on that foundation. For fall 2012 she brought things back to nature, but with an expressionist twist. This time around, the knits (Missoni’s expertise) started in broad strokes and by the finale honed in on the cellular level. One dress in particular—look #11—seemed to be taken from the horizon of Edvard Munch’s The Scream, while the proceeding prints were arrestingly microscopic, picking up on the nuances of bark, cytoplasm, and other abstract interpretations of cell structures.
Probably one of her strongest offerings to date, Missoni refined her patchwork techniques as well to ward off any bohemia clichés. They were constructed with calf and pony hair hides, leather, lizard, and decadent knits. All that was left was polished, elegant design with a touch of toughness for good measure.
Missoni also introduced a new silhouette: a quarter-sleeve wrap shawl that was the perfect revision to shapes introduced by the Mulleavy sisters at Rodarte. The shawls were shown in a variety of knitted fabrics and styled over dresses, coats, and blazers. This shape is sure to sell, cinching the waist and offering a nice juxtaposition of elegance against the barebones natural references.
The accessories were another added bonus. The belts were thread-thin with a tiny buckle, while the necklaces, rings, and elbow bangles were daring and tribal. The statement necklaces with pendants of raw crystal were divine. The clutches, crafted in polished gold, were embellished with enamel-looking geometric shapes to bring home the underlying theme of minimal naturalism.