Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Spring 2013

by Melissa Tunstall


Did someone order sugary sweet  couture? If so, Alexis Mabille delivered. As his first year showing with the haute couture appellate, Mabille celebrated like a kid in a candy store. Employing shades of pink—many of the bubble gum variety—cotton candy-esque dresses paraded down the pink runway.

Opening the show with a lace and chiffon blouse and skinny pink satin pants, Mabille left no question about his aesthetic. Lace and chiffon dresses as light as cotton candy, sheer skirts, and layers of lace like mille feuilles all stemmed from the confection shop inspiration. Yet, the details were so beautiful you could look past the syrupy sweetness of the line. Touches of sheer fabric (skirts, tops, you name it) and cutouts added just the right amount of spice. And then the show stopper: the black tuxedo inspired dress with the slit up to there came. Perhaps the black licorice of the candy store?

Showing that sugar and spice and everything nice definitely ran through the collection. Spice was needed and added at the right moment. Sometimes the spice was subtle-a gown in red or yellow instead of pink. Other times more obvious-the black tentacle like additions to the lilac dress and of the course the devilishly delicious black dress.

And then there was the hair. One can only assume it was meant to add a bit of edge to the saccharine garments, but it seemed almost too desperate. The silver sprayed—no, shellacked—hair was baffling. Maybe it’ll catch on but hopefully not.  Maybe we missed the reason behind, and this time we hope so.