Inspired by the Brauhaus school of design, Iceberg’s fall 2013 collection employed black as its canvas with accents of reds, yellows, and blues adorning the simple yet beautifully tailored garments.
The brand known for strutting statuesque male models down the runway in their briefs turned to its Italian roots and created a collection playing off the Catholicism of its home.
Versace men’s ready-to-wear collection may as well have just been called the show with the lingerie for men.
The Central Saint Martins graduate drew on the grunge look and at times had us wondering if he had magically brought the members of Nirvana back together and back to life.
Creating a narrative through the collection, Topman Design showcased their fashions through the evolving nature of one’s global journey.
Dead Poets Society goes to the drive-in in Christopher Kane’s latest ghoulish menswear collection.
Danger reigned the Alexander McQueen Fall 2013 runway, with a display by Sarah Burton that was dripping in rigor and more than just a hint of madness.
Menswear can be very tricky. Walking a fine line of pushing the design creatively enough while still remaining functional enough to make people want to buy and wear the clothes.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have really locked in on the princess dream dress at Valentino. There’s something regal about their clothes. Their diffusion line Red Valentino still fits into the princess motif, but this girl is all good times and frivolity.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are something like conjurers. Their Valentino woman is a perfect mix of modern and mythic femininity. Their clothes have always been blessed by a finely tuned temporal amalgamation of good taste – a little bit of the old, a little bit of the new.
The Resort and Pre-Fall collections are always very telling of what Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquiere has in store for his big ready-to-wear collections.
Not to insinuate that Massimiliano Giornetti has struggled to find his footing at Salvatore Ferragamo, but his Spring collection was so overwhelmingly pleasing, so supremely luxurious and so accessible, that it may just be the apotheosis of everything that Salvatore Ferragamo stands for historically in palpable actuality today.
The return of Jil Sander to her eponymous line after an eight year high-fashion hiatus is one of the industry’s most noted, talked about stories.
What has happened to Dolce & Gabbana? They’re officially gridlocked in a campy nostalgia, in a kitschy bucolic loop that looks to be inescapable. A year ago they hit upon something big, a special way of doing things. You can pick out the same notes in last Spring’s show, to last Fall’s foray to this latest collection for Spring ’13.
Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni decided that this was the season to turn that cushiony notion right on its head. Marni is a label brimming with supposed givens. Marni means color, print, fabulous jewelry – it means leather and fur. Turns out, not so much. Well, at least not this season, anyway.
1940s glamor reigned at the Burberry Prorsum catwalk today. Christopher Bailey looked to capes and corsets to tap into that zenith of Brit elegance and he did so by turning out pieces you wouldn’t necessarily envision belonging to the Burberry house upon first glance.
After the explosive success of Versace for H&M and the welcome return to couture form with Atelier Versace, it appears Donatella’s newfound creative impetus has staked fertile ground in the ready-to-wear line, making for a fresh and spirited Versace girl, but one whose inherent carnality is always close at hand.
Tomas Maier’s collections at Bottega Veneta get better and better with every passing season. What he delivered for Spring must be his most considered, worked-over, strategically conceived and luxurious clothes to date.
That strange sensation in the pit of your stomach before a Prada show is very natural. It’s called anticipation. Every spring and fall, for at least 8 minutes, the fashion world comes to a halt and pays attention to what Prada and crew have to deliver for the season.
In contemporary fashion, there are few pleasures as satisfying as following Brit designer Christopher Kane from Point A to Point B. While his pieces are almost always certainly ‘pretty’, they happen to be interesting enough to be equally ‘lugubrious’.
With all they have to celebrate, how apropos is a ‘Greatest Hits’ collection at this point? It may not have been intentional, but Proenza Schouler’s latest collection, all its mighty bravura aside, came across as self-referential at times, despite McCollough and Hernandez’s insistence on internet ‘randomness’ as their guiding trope for the season.
It seems almost a miracle that they hadn’t tackled it before. Fantasy role-playing warrior princesses? That’s prime fodder for the overly active imaginations of Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy.
Ruby Jean. Remember that name. “You’re destined for big things little Ruby Jean”. It’s that kind of name, and fitting for the bleach blonde beauty that opened the Marc Jacobs show. It’s possible that her entrance was so picture-perfect, so holistic in mood, so Marc Jacobs at a molecular level that, at least for this editor, the message that would play out for the next seven minutes announced itself entirely in that moment.
After ten years in the business, Rag & Bone’s David Neville and Marcus Wainwright continue to hold on to a wise and seemingly simple credo: Cool Believability.
After winning the CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear and delivering on that promise with a Fall collection that landed right at the tippy tops of most editors’ best of the season lists, one could only guess that being Joseph Altuzarra these days comes with pressure most mortals would crumble under.